Catbells from Hawse End

Catbells is the most recognisable small fell above Derwentwater, its double-humped ridge visible from most of Keswick. The standard route starts at Hawse End, on the western shore, reached either by walking round through Portinscale or by taking the Keswick Launch across the lake. From there the path climbs directly up the ridge, over what walkers call “the two steps”, short rocky sections rather than a continuous scramble, to a narrow summit with a view down the length of Derwentwater to Keswick and Skiddaw beyond.

Alfred Wainwright, who first catalogued the Lake District fells, called Catbells “a family fell where grandmothers and infants can climb the heights together”, and it remains one of the few Lakeland summits manageable by most walking families. That reputation undersells the top slightly: the final approach involves enough rock and exposure that small children need a hand, and the path can be greasy after rain. Most people come down the gentler southern flank toward Borrowdale or retrace the ridge, making a loop of two to three hours including the boat crossing.

The fell was mined for lead in the nineteenth century, and old shaft entrances remain close to the path in places. They are not fenced and are worth walking well round rather than investigating. Sheep graze the lower slopes, so dogs need a lead there even if they can run free on the open ridge above.

This is not a walk for anyone wanting solitude. Its combination of a short approach, a dramatic-looking ridge and easy access from Keswick makes it one of the busiest paths in the northern Lakes on any clear weekend, which is why the National Trust, who own the fell as part of their Borrowdale and Derwent Water holding, keep the eroded sections pitched with stone.