Four Falls Trail from Gwaun Hepste

Waterfall Country is the south-western corner of Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons), where, per Natural Resources Wales, the rivers Mellte, Hepste, Pyrddin, Nedd Fechan and Sychryd run down deep wooded gorges before joining to form the River Neath. The Four Falls Trail strings four waterfalls together, which Visit Wales lists in walking order: Sgwd Clun-Gwyn, Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn and Sgwd y Pannwr, whose Welsh name records its use for washing wool, on the Afon Mellte, then Sgwd yr Eira on the Afon Hepste. The last is the one most people come for. Wikipedia’s account of the Hepste has it plunging over a band of resistant gritstone, and Visit Wales says a rough path used by sheep farmers runs behind the curtain of water.

The trail leaves Gwaun Hepste car park, which the national park authority manages as pay and display, and follows red waymarkers; Natural Resources Wales puts the first waterfall about 40 minutes away. The green-arrowed side paths to each viewpoint are the hard part, because the main path runs along the top of the gorge and every fall means a climb down and back up, steps the park authority calls steep, uneven and often slippery. Cwm Porth, the other car park, joins the trail at SN 928 124 and has toilets and a shop, which Gwaun Hepste lacks. Visit Wales says both car parks are small and often full before midday.

Natural Resources Wales gives the circuit as 8km and three to four hours, the panel on site says 8.4km, and the park authority says to allow four hours for all four falls. Natural Resources Wales grades it strenuous, reports several deaths here in recent years, and warns that the pools are cold, deep and fast. A walker in boots who wants a half day below the tops, and will skip any side path that looks too steep, is who it suits. It is not for anyone who needs a buggy or wheelchair route, which Visit Wales says the falls lack, nor for swimmers, nor for anyone wanting quiet: the authority counts more than 300,000 visitors a year, most by car, so this is a drive from a base at Brecon, not a walk from the door. Natural Resources Wales offers a slightly shorter Sgwd yr Eira Trail from Dinas Rock for one fall only, and Pen y Fan is the alternative for open hill in place of gorge.