Dolgellau

Dolgellau is a stone-built market town at the head of the Mawddach estuary, and it has been the main base for climbing Cadair Idris and its neighbour Mynydd Moel for as long as either mountain has drawn visitors; both are visible from the town. Dolgellau’s wealth was built on wool: by the end of the eighteenth century the local weaving trade was worth £50,000 to £100,000 a year, and winch-hoods still visible high on some town buildings, along with the ruined Pandy fulling mills along the Afon Aran, are what is left of it.

Why base here

The Minffordd Path up Cadair Idris starts a short drive from town at Dôl Idris. In the other direction, the Mawddach Trail follows the old Ruabon to Barmouth railway line, closed in 1965, for about eight miles along the south side of the estuary to Morfa Mawddach, flat and surfaced enough for cycling as well as walking. It forms part of the Lôn Las Cymru long-distance cycle route, and an RSPB centre at Penmaenpool, in a restored signal box, sits about halfway along.

On foot versus by car

The shorter, easier Torrent Walk near Brithdir is a few minutes’ drive from Dolgellau rather than a walk from the town centre. The Minffordd Path start for Cadair Idris is further out towards Tal-y-llyn, and needs a car too. The Mawddach Trail, by contrast, begins right in the town and can be walked or cycled as far as time allows before turning back.

Practicalities

Dolgellau’s own railway station closed in 1965 and the building was later demolished for the A470 bypass. The nearest station today is Morfa Mawddach, on the Cambrian Line, about eight miles away by the Mawddach Trail or the A493. The town has held a bridge over the Afon Wnion since 1638, and Owain Glyndŵr is recorded holding a council here in 1404, during his uprising against English rule.

With children

The Mawddach Trail starts right in Dolgellau and stays flat for as far as anyone wants to go, with the RSPB’s centre at Penmaenpool, in an old signal box beside the estuary, as a natural turning point for a family outing of an hour or two rather than the full eight miles to Morfa Mawddach. Torrent Walk, a few minutes’ drive out at Brithdir, is shorter still at four kilometres, following cascades on the Afon Clywedog through old industrial workings, but parts of the path run close to unfenced drops into the ravine, so it wants a hand held rather than a child let loose to explore. Cadair Idris by the Minffordd Path is not a family walk at any age discussed here: 788 metres of ascent to Llyn Cau and the summit ridge, graded hard, with the upper section unmarked. Leave the mountain for later and let the estuary trail do the work instead.