Pooley Bridge

Pooley Bridge takes its name from the bridge over the River Eamont at the northern end of Ullswater. Wikipedia records that the 1764 bridge, which replaced a sixteenth-century one, collapsed on 6 December 2015 in the floods of Storm Desmond, and that a stainless steel bridge was lifted into place in May 2020 and opened that October. The village has hotels, guest houses and campsites, and a pier from which the Ullswater steamers run to Howtown and Glenridding.

Why base here

The case for Pooley Bridge is the lake and the gentler end of the valley, and it is a weaker case for hills than the village at the other end. Wikipedia describes the Roman road over High Street, the fell at 828m, as running between the forts at Brougham and Ambleside, and says the full south to north traverse of the ridge, 30km over twelve summits and for experienced walkers only, finishes in the Eamont valley at the northern end of Ullswater. That is the one big hill day tied to this end of the lake. For the mountain most people come to Ullswater for, Glenridding is the better base: the standard Helvellyn route starts at its car park, while Pooley Bridge is a boat or bus journey from it.

On foot versus by car

Aira Force, 8.3km away in a straight line, starts from the National Trust car park near Dockray, and the steamer company opened an Aira Force jetty in 2015. Place Fell starts from the Patterdale village car park, 11.3km away in a straight line, and Helvellyn by Striding Edge from the Glenridding car park, 11.3km. Both of those are at the far end of the lake, so a day on either from Pooley Bridge begins with the steamer, which Wikipedia says runs the length of the lake to Glenridding, or the 508.

Practicalities

Penrith is the nearest station. SITU, the community group behind the Ullswater Bus, names the 508 from Penrith through Pooley Bridge and Aira Force to Glenridding, Patterdale, Kirkstone Pass and Windermere, and the X4 and X5 for Penrith to Keswick. The Ullswater Bus adds the UB1 and UB2 minibuses between Aira Force, Pooley Bridge and Howtown, and the 509. Stagecoach runs all of them, and SITU says the minibuses are seasonal, so read its timetable before planning around them.

Who this base does not suit

Anyone who wants Helvellyn or Place Fell as the plan for the week will spend part of each day getting to the other end of the lake, and should stay in Glenridding instead. It does not suit a walker who wants a summit from the door either, since the lake path and the boat are the village’s real offer. For the fells above Windermere and a station within reach, Ambleside is the better choice.